ISLANDS, TEMPLES, AND RIVERS - OH MY!

After breakfast we borded a feluca, one of the traditional sailing vessels of the Egyptian people. A single sail hangs from a high, flexible mast that curves like a bow. We tacked back and forth across the Nile, all the boats zigging and zagging past each other, throwing spray. !



The old man piloting ours used Milad to steer a couple times, even shoving ropes into Kathryn and my hands occasionally. He had a pirate flag sewn onto his sail.










I had been expecting a short ferry to the island across from us, but instead we enjoyed a leisurely cruise around the entire island, slowing down to view the mausoleum of Akter Khan before docking on the far side of the island.





We also spotted the Old Cataract Inn, a turn of the century European hotel where Agatha Christie is said to have penned part of her “Murder on the Nile."








Elephantine Island was an important settlement on the Nile for centuries. The ruined city of Yebu, meaning elephant or ivory, is still being excavated. After continual destruction through floods, enemies, and earthquakes, it was clearly cursed, so they abandoned it to the elements and it lay buried undisturbed till the 18th century.


The site is a sprawling complex of temples and houses, though everything is in great ruin. But many of the inscriptions are in excellent shape and even some paint still sparkles on some of the carvings.



The museum consists of artifacts found at the site including some amazing pieces of pottery with nary a scratch. A mummified gazelle was among the more macabre pieces, along with a mummified human head. (The body had gone missing!) Several sarcophagi, beautifully painted, crowd the hallways.

As we boarded our boat for the return passage, a disheveled old sot leaped on board and immediately went to work helping with the sails. After getting the boat underway, he brought out some beaded necklaces and such for sale. Kathryn bought a couple that were made from some type of dried up plant; they emitted a lovely fragrance; an interesting curio piece to hang in our house somewhere.

After our return, we boarded our cruise ship for lunch. The Diamond is perfect for us, eliciting the feel of a ritzy 1930s vessel, completely in keeping with our Indiana Jones Adventure. The lobby houses a massive chandelier and the décor is red and gold. Our suite boasts a round bed surrounded by mirrored walls with inlaid furnishings of black and gold.


We are on full board minus drinks, and the food is pretty good,served at set times with assigned seating. We share our table with two girls on holiday from England – though they are American and Canadian respectively. But its nice to have someone to compare travel tips with.

The ship set sail more than an hour late, so by the time we got to Kom Ombo it was supposed to be closed, but we were not the only ship arriving late so apparently they stayed open to accommodate us.

Kom Ombo temple is actually a combined temple, dedicated to both Horus and the evil Crocodile God Sobek! Incidentally, it is a crocodile headed creature who devours the hearts of sinners in the afterlife. Maybe that's why Sobek gets such a bad rap. He is not so much worshipped as he is placated. Becoming angry at his lack of tribute and respect (I hear a hissing imitation of Rodney Dangerfield) this combined temple was an attempt to pacify him.

">

Divided directly down the center, the left side was reserved for Horus, while Sobek ruled on the right. Hundreds of crocs were actually housed at the site as well as herds of war elephants, although I did not catch how the elephants connected.

The place is awesome, and once again I am overwhelmed at the colossal size of EVERYTHING! I liked this temple a lot cause Sobek is extremely cool looking!

A couple of the ceilings maintained their original color, a white background with the blue painted feathers of Amon-Ra. Spectacular! (check the video!)

After Milad left us, a wandering temple guard showed us a couple interesting things, even taking us inside a locked chamber to show us a god clutching what the man claimed was a stethoscope. I'd seen this necklace on Osirus' neck before, but I didn't argue. Let him believe all tourists are idiots. Of course, he wanted baksheesh for this service, so I offered him two pounds. (.50) He said “Too cheap, too cheap.” So I held out three. He wouldn't take it, cheap, cheap. Twenty, he said. I said, “Take the three or don't take anything.” Guess what he chose? Milad informed me later that they usually get around 30 pounds for this ($6). Well, this time he got .75. Hey, I was out of small bills.



We're running late as usual and there's a Gabalia party on board the ship tonight, where guests are encouraged to wear the traditional long garment of the Nubian people. We thought we'd participate if they were cheap enough. So we stopped to look at a shop and the guy told us 180 pounds. We had no time to barter and simply handed it back. He pursued us down the street, dropping the price at every step. He seemed hung on 70 for a while, but all I had on me was 50. ($10) I said, 50 – no, no, no, 70! I ran on. He followed, “Okay, 60.” I said, 50. No, no. I ran on. He pounds along behind, Okay, okay, 50. I turn and take the dress, handing him the 50. He says, “No 5 for me?” I actually laughed out loud.

Then, we couldn't find our boat. They park these things four and five ships deep, and you must cross through all the other ones to get to shore. Well, they had moved ours after we disembarked! We rushed up and down the dock, Milad questioning everyone and getting a different answer from each person. I finally spotted it, three ships in, and we made it safely on board just in time for supper.

I bought myself one of these outfits on board for a mere $8, and we were joined by Milad, also in costume at the party. We were basically the only people in these outfits, but that's okay, we played along. The whole party had maybe 20-30 people there, but Kathryn and I danced a couple dances; disco fox, cha-cha, and rumba, so I still had a nice time.

I am up early and sitting on the private balcony of our suite. There are only two on the whole ship, I don't know how we managed to score one. I must say I am surprised to find myself cold. We are heading North, so the sun is on the opposite side of the ship, plus we are sailing at a pretty good clip and creating quite a breeze. I'm in my swim trunks, but also wearing my leather jacket.

We're passing another ship right now and I am looking at all the people on the sun deck looking at me. There are dozens if not hundreds of these ships plying the Nile.

Along the bank I see low mud brick buildings, peasants bent in fields of waving wheat, scrawny livestock foraging, and birds swooping low over the placid water. I swear some of the buildings look exactly like the houses in the ruined city on Elephantine Island!


As I watch life slide by on the Nile, I imagine the view is not changed much from when Caesar sailed these same waters with Cleopatra.

THE TEMPLES OF ABU SIMBEL

Abu Simbel is totally freaking awesome!!!!

The name means “two temples” and from the moment you see them you are struck with wonder. The Sun Temple of Ramses is huge! The four figures flanking the entrance are each 67 feet high – and they're sitting down. A hundred yards away, another temple sprawls, smaller and less imposing but no less inspiring. This is the temple of Nefetari, Ramses II most beloved – and most beautiful – wife.

Ramses II is considered one of the greatest Kings of Egypt. He set out with three goals and accomplished them all – to gain back the land lost by his father, to crush his enemies, and to build some of the most awe-inspiring temples in Egypt.

Check out this short video:



The four statues outside all represent Ramses, two of them as a man, two of them as a god. I couldn't tell the difference. One of them stands broken, its shattered pieces lying strewn about its feet. It broke as a result of the great earthquake during the 22nd year of Ramses' reign. He never repaired it or re-carved it, so the Egyptian authorities let it lie.

That reminds me; this awesome structure, originally carved into a mountain, was painstakingly disassembled and reconstructed at its present location to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser. We watched part of a video recording the process and it was a mammoth undertaking and an engineering triumph!

Clustered about the feet of the King are his wives, or a few of them. He had over 200, fathering 84 sons and 55 daughters. Represented by the two figures flanking the door is Nefetari – whose name means Beautiful One. We saw an unfinished bust of her at the Egyptian museum and she truly was beautiful. Here's a shot of my favorite wife posing with Ramses' favorite! ;^)


Across the top of the temple squats a band of baboons, representations of Thoth, the God of Wisdom. Other statues line the front. As you enter the temple, a carved line of slaves linked by ropes through their collars, kneel in supplication.



Inside six gargantuan guards flank each side of the entry way. I watch them warily lest they spring to lumbering life. (I've read too many Conan stories!)



It's hard to comprehend how MASSIVE everything is. The chamber walls are covered in relief carvings and hieroglyphics, fantastic images telling Ramses' story.


There are scenes of battle and death,

but by far the most prevalent involves sacrifices to the gods. Heaping piles of food are burned before Horus, Osirus appears with his erect phallus,
the motherhood Goddess crowns Nefetari. Most amazing is the colors are still visible. The entire compound was INSIDE a mountain, carved inside, in fact. So there was no wind, no rain, no sun to damage its splendor. Still, it is 3200 years old!


In the back room, four figures rest.






These are the gods of the temple, and originally the temple was aligned so that on Ramses' birthday, and on the anniversary of his inauguration, a beam of sunlight blazed down this hall to illuminate this room! Amazing, eh




This sacred boat appears in many temples. Even more amazingly, we come across a real one in a few days, the actual boat carried in the ceremonies more than two millennia ago!





The smaller temple features statues of Ramses and Nefetari. Traditionally, Queens were never shown higher than their husbands knee. Breaking from this tradition shows the standing Ramses held for Nefetari. Inside, images of Nefetari at work with her needles, or being adorned by the gods grace six massive pillars.



These decorations are so detailed you can clearly see the patterns on Nefetari's dress and the multi-colored jewelry and beads.







Very, very cool. I bought photos from the place for $20, large 8X10 better than anything I could have taken even if you were allowed to take photos which you were not.






I noted though the key to the door was shaped like the key of life, so the guard had me hold it, step back from the door, and take a photo inside. Of course, he got his baksheesh.


This is another spot where we didn't get to stay long enough. Most tourists arrive by a convoy that leaves at 4am (yuck) and departs again at 10. We took a plane! Still, the time at the actual site remains the same, roughly 2-3 hours. I plan to go back and stay in the actual city, and spend the entire day at this site. It is that impressive!!


I had an interesting experience at the airport. I had filled my last journal and needed a new one. Milad informed me that there is no haggling at the airport, so when they told me the price of the journal, I paid it, though I did think it a little high. Then, I realized I needed sunglasses; I had lost mine inside one of the pyramids. I went back, picked a pair and asked the price. She told me $20. I said I could get some for much less in the sohk. I had no intention of haggling, I simply didn't want them at that price. She said, I can let you have them for $16. I immediately countered with $10, and we settled at $12. Lesson: You can haggle everywhere in Egypt!

By the way, these broke the next day, and I ended up buying a pair in the sohk anyway! Paid $5, and am still using them 7 months later.