Abu Simbel is totally freaking awesome!!!!
The name means “two temples” and from the moment you see them you are struck with wonder. The Sun Temple of Ramses is huge! The four figures flanking the entrance are each 67 feet high – and they're sitting down. A hundred yards away, another temple sprawls, smaller and less imposing but no less inspiring. This is the temple of Nefetari, Ramses II most beloved – and most beautiful – wife.
Ramses II is considered one of the greatest Kings of Egypt. He set out with three goals and accomplished them all – to gain back the land lost by his father, to crush his enemies, and to build some of the most awe-inspiring temples in Egypt.
Check out this short video:
The four statues outside all represent Ramses, two of them as a man, two of them as a god. I couldn't tell the difference. One of them stands broken, its shattered pieces lying strewn about its feet. It broke as a result of the great earthquake during the 22nd year of Ramses' reign. He never repaired it or re-carved it, so the Egyptian authorities let it lie.
That reminds me; this awesome structure, originally carved into a mountain, was painstakingly disassembled and reconstructed at its present location to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser. We watched part of a video recording the process and it was a mammoth undertaking and an engineering triumph!
Clustered about the feet of the King are his wives, or a few of them. He had over 200, fathering 84 sons and 55 daughters. Represented by the two figures flanking the door is Nefetari – whose name means Beautiful One. We saw an unfinished bust of her at the Egyptian museum and she truly was beautiful. Here's a shot of my favorite wife posing with Ramses' favorite! ;^)
Across the top of the temple squats a band of baboons, representations of Thoth, the God of Wisdom. Other statues line the front. As you enter the temple, a carved line of slaves linked by ropes through their collars, kneel in supplication.
Inside six gargantuan guards flank each side of the entry way. I watch them warily lest they spring to lumbering life. (I've read too many Conan stories!)
It's hard to comprehend how MASSIVE everything is. The chamber walls are covered in relief carvings and hieroglyphics, fantastic images telling Ramses' story.
There are scenes of battle and death,
but by far the most prevalent involves sacrifices to the gods. Heaping piles of food are burned before Horus, Osirus appears with his erect phallus,
the motherhood Goddess crowns Nefetari. Most amazing is the colors are still visible. The entire compound was INSIDE a mountain, carved inside, in fact. So there was no wind, no rain, no sun to damage its splendor. Still, it is 3200 years old!
In the back room, four figures rest.
These are the gods of the temple, and originally the temple was aligned so that on Ramses' birthday, and on the anniversary of his inauguration, a beam of sunlight blazed down this hall to illuminate this room! Amazing, eh
This sacred boat appears in many temples. Even more amazingly, we come across a real one in a few days, the actual boat carried in the ceremonies more than two millennia ago!
The smaller temple features statues of Ramses and Nefetari. Traditionally, Queens were never shown higher than their husbands knee. Breaking from this tradition shows the standing Ramses held for Nefetari. Inside, images of Nefetari at work with her needles, or being adorned by the gods grace six massive pillars. These decorations are so detailed you can clearly see the patterns on Nefetari's dress and the multi-colored jewelry and beads.
Very, very cool. I bought photos from the place for $20, large 8X10 better than anything I could have taken even if you were allowed to take photos which you were not.
I noted though the key to the door was shaped like the key of life, so the guard had me hold it, step back from the door, and take a photo inside. Of course, he got his baksheesh.
This is another spot where we didn't get to stay long enough. Most tourists arrive by a convoy that leaves at 4am (yuck) and departs again at 10. We took a plane! Still, the time at the actual site remains the same, roughly 2-3 hours. I plan to go back and stay in the actual city, and spend the entire day at this site. It is that impressive!!
I had an interesting experience at the airport. I had filled my last journal and needed a new one. Milad informed me that there is no haggling at the airport, so when they told me the price of the journal, I paid it, though I did think it a little high. Then, I realized I needed sunglasses; I had lost mine inside one of the pyramids. I went back, picked a pair and asked the price. She told me $20. I said I could get some for much less in the sohk. I had no intention of haggling, I simply didn't want them at that price. She said, I can let you have them for $16. I immediately countered with $10, and we settled at $12. Lesson: You can haggle everywhere in Egypt!
By the way, these broke the next day, and I ended up buying a pair in the sohk anyway! Paid $5, and am still using them 7 months later.
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