Monday, October 15, 2012

New Year's Eve in the bush


Dec. 31, 2011 - Day 16
This morning I was awoken by the grunting of hippos so loud I ran outside in my underwear to see if they were right outside. I didn’t see anything, but Samson told me later he had heard them tearing the grass by his tent, and he looked out the window in time to see a mamma and baby waddle away.

We’ll be going on our last game drive in about an hour. I have not been so sad to end a vacation since Italy 1998. For me, this is heaven – endless wilderness swarming with abundant wildlife. I haven’t checked Facebook in 16 days and could not care less if I ever see it again.

Today, we started out visiting the lions from yesterday’s ambuscade. No kill, but they had been joined by a young male, probably the one viewed in our camp the night before last. We didn’t stay long as they were most interested in sleeping.

 
 
 
When drinking coffee this morning, we spotted 3 Dik-Diks off the veranda; one was a baby, as if anything could actually BE smaller…

 
 
 
 
 
I had really wanted to see elephants again, but Samson said he didn’t think there were any in the area. I kept thinking about them, though, and lo and behold, we spotted two far off the road amongst the trees. Unfortunately, we were in the Serengeti which does not allow off road travel, but this guy carried the biggest tusks I have seen on the whole trip. Again, you could understand why hunters of yore coveted these things. Samson agreed to take us of road just a bit, though to be caught carries a heavy fine and possible suspension. We never got close enough for the photo I wanted, however I did get ot view them with the field glasses. Spectacular!

We learned that elephants are right of left side dominant like humans, and that is the foot they’ll use to help them knock loose plants, and the tusk on that side will grow bigger. Elephants grow and lose six sets of teeth, and after they lose the last one, they end up starving to death. The high calcium concentration in the volcanic soil nearby contributes to both their large tusks and their long lives, as their teeth last longer.

We also saw a striped hyena, as opposed to the multitudes of spotted hyenas we’ve seen. Samson said he’s only ever seen 3 in all his years of guiding. They live on insects!

We gathered with about 20 other trucks to watch a cheetah on the hunt. Everybody stayed so far back it was hard to distinguish the cat among the grass with the naked eye, but you could see him well with field glasses.

We watched her prowl along after a herd of gazelles, hiding in the grass from the big bucks who would sound the alarm and could conceivably spear the cheetah with their long thin horns. The bucks knew something was up and pranced back and forth pawing the dirt, scampering away, then wandering back.

Eventually, the jig was up and the cheetah rose and strode to a nearby rock as if she were no longer interested in the herd at all. After watching this scene play out for about an hour, we drove on, but we learned from other guests later that the cheetah indeed succeeded in pulling down a young gazelle.

Of course there were other animals, but I can’t remember it all now, being 3am on Jan. 2 in the Kenya airport…

I told Samson at lunch that for our last drive, we wanted to see elephants and giraffes, but he said he didn’t think we’d find those elephants again, and talked about how wide a range elephants had. Also, we hadn’t seen any giraffes in the past two days. Kathryn and I have become very fond of “Twiga” (the Swahili word for giraffes) and we miss them.

Back at our tent, on the patio, I pulled out my telephone and played the Johnny Weissmuller Tarzan yell (my ringtone) a couple times, just to get in the mood…

 
We got in the truck, drove out of camp, and BOOM – there was an elephant! No, it wasn’t the one with the giant tusks, but at least it was an elephant and we were able to get close to it. You KNOW it was coming in response to that Tarzan yell, right??? :^D

And what was on the other side of the road? Giraffes – two or three. For the rest of the afternoon, we must have seen 50 giraffes, they were everywhere.



 
 
 
 
 
What else did we see on that last drive? We saw 5 or 6 hyena’s bathing in a pool.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We saw a tree totally covered in vultures – I counted 25 and I couldn’t see the far side of it. We saw jackals, dik-diks, steinbocks. We had to drive by and check on my lions, I kept hoping they would make a kill – but no luck. Some vultures had gathered nearby. Samson said they knew the lions needed to eat within the day so they were getting ready for the leftovers.

 
 
 
We drove down by the lake shore and guess what we saw! A crocodile! Lying totally exposed on a little stone island. What made this so cool is I had wanted to see one more croc since I was never happy with the views we saw of the other 3. I had asked one of the staff about crocs in the lake. She said “I’ve heard there’s one crocodile in the lake, but I’ve never seen it.” Well, we saw it! Samson said he’s been coming here for years and never saw it, and when he told the guides about it, they didn’t believe him!

Another funny sighting – in the back of the truck, I played the Tarzan yell again, and about two minutes later, we spot something under a tree. We make Samson drive back and what is it? A large, male baboon, the first primate we’ve seen since coming here. There aren’t many trees about; this is not baboon or monkey territory. And he’s all alone. Where’s his troop? Of course I know that – like the elephant – he came in answer to the Lord of the Jungle’s cry! ;^)

Down by the lake we watched the hippos make a big show of displeasure as some staff from our lodge siphoned water into a big tanker truck. We saw some jackals here, too. Our lodge is on the hill above us and we can see the veranda from where we’re parked.

 
 
 
 
Across the river, a massive herd of wildebeests are gathering. Samson says it looks like they are about to cross the river.
 
 
 
 
 
 
After about 1000 or so have bunched themselves on the shore, a few dive in and start swimming, but unfortunately, directly across from them is another safari truck and Samson said this probably scared them off cause they turned back to shore.

So – on our last game drive we saw elephants, giraffes, lions, hippos, zebras, wildebeest, Thompson gazelles, grant gazelles, impalas, elands, jackals, hyenas, storks, buzzards, vultures, eagles, and a crocodile! What a day.

We went to the tent and got cleaned up for New Year’s Eve and had a fabulous dinner of ham and turkey with all the trimmings.

Then we went out on the veranda and danced some swing to a tune on my telephone, and then turned in early to get some rest for our long journey tomorrow.

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